Murud

THE PLACE

Murud, a picturesque little quiet fishing village 165 km away from Mumbai on the lush green western coast of Maharashtra, was at one time the capital of the former state of Janjira.

Janjira is the Marathi corruption of the Arabic word jazirah meaning an island. Though the whole areas was once called Janjira, the name truly referred to the mighty island fortress in the sea. The pride of Murud, Janjira Fort, was once the stronghold of the Abyssinian Sidis who played an important part in the history of the city of Mumbai, in the latter part of the 17th century.

The presence of the volatile Abyssinians continues to be felt, as much in the tales of Murud's past glory recounted by old-timers, as in the magnificent Sidi Palace that stands even today on the outskirts of Murud village.

From the bus stop in Murud, the road is narrow and clean, lined by hedges and palm trees. A few thatched houses lie sleepily in the sunlight. At a little distance to the right is the sea, and in its waters can be seen the hazy outlines of the Casa Fort.

The interiors of the Sidi Palace are now out of bounds to the tourist. The 43 acres of land is strewn with relics of the past like the shell of an old cannon, remnants of a stone lion, a disused fountain covered with weeds, fragments of sculpture.

Life in Murud

People here are content with farming and fishing, their age-old occupations. Life is leisurely spent in a sylvan setting of luxuriant coconut palms, rice and betel nut harvests, gently lapping sea waves and the tangy freshness of sea air.

For the tourist on pillage, Murud offers golden Alphonso mangoes, luscious jackfruit, bananas, cashew nuts and coconuts. One of Murud's most pleasurable gifts is the coconut madi or toddy.

The loveliest way to see Murud is to move around in a tonga or horse buggy. To the rhythmic beat of horse hooves, one absorbs its ambience. One can see Koli fisherwomen walking in colorful saris balancing baskets of fresh pomfret, lobsters and crabs on their heads.

Janjira Fort

One cannot leave Murud without visiting the great Janjira fort. A black mass of impregnable rock, Janjira fort leaves one awestruck.

A stone carving at the main entrance depicts six elephants trapped by a single tiger-a symbol of the bravery of the Sidis. Once the fort boasted of five hundred canons, today only a handful are left, still intact and able to tell their story. Amongst them are the three major cannons, Kalal Bangdi, Landakasam and Bhavani, the cherished weapons of the Sidis, built from five metals.

At one time when the village had no drinking water, miraculously there flourished inside the fort in the middle of the sea, two sweet water lakes. These lakes still exist.

All the people living inside the fort moved out after 1959 and settled in Ekdara village, close to Murud, and it is their claim that Janjira Fort was founded by one of their Hindu ancestors of the Koli tribe called Rambhau Patil towards the end of the 14th century. Yet controversy rages as to the founder and no conclusive proof exists.

Unlike other beaches located on flat land, in Murud the beach is found at the foot of the hills. One stands on a vast expanse of sand stretching into miles, without seeing a soul. There is a compelling force about its bleakness, and a majesty about the waters.

This is where the weekender has his tipsy moments in complete privacy and where families find themselves drawn closer together. Hawkers have not yet destroyed its serenity, five star hotels have not commercialized it. Murud is untouched and unspoilt as yet.

SITES NEARBY

About four km from Murud is Carambi Dharan (Dam), which is also a picnic spot. It provides clean water through pipes to Murud throughout the year channeled from its natural springs.

To the right of Murud village is Datta Mandir (temple) atop a hill. Steps lead up to this 300-year-old temple. This picturesque spot offers a special view of the sea.

Around eight km form Murud is a holy spot, with a Sidhi Vinayak Temple of the Hindu deity Lord Ganapati.

Alkapuri at a distance of three-four km from Murud is a picnic spot favored for its lush green vegetation.

HOW TO REACH

By Air

The nearest airport is Mumbai 165 km away.

By Rail

The nearest railhead is at Panvel 122 km away.

By Road

The distance from Mumbai to Murud is 165 km; from Pune via Mahad is 230 km. The Maharashtra State Transport buses ply from Mumbai and Pune to Murud.