Hogenakkal

INTRODUCTION

And, as an added bonus, one can visit the giant terra-cotta village guardians, the Aiyanars, on the way to Hogenakkal.

LOCATION

This is one of the wonderful waterfalls in Tamil Nadu. It is a part of the river Cauvery and is about 250 metres above sea level. The main attraction of the falls is its vertical drop from a height of 20 metres with a thundering sound. A sacred bathing place, Hogenakkal is well known for its power of healing. It is located at a distance of 114 km from Salem and 133 km from Bangalore.

ON WAY TO HOGENAKKAL

The 15 km descent from Pennagaram to Hogenakkal snakes through very interesting terrain. In these lands, one can see villages with lush fields of mulberry, fodder for busy silkworms, and the broad-leaved though often scraggy castor. On the outskirts of the rural settlements en route are their fascinating guardian deities, often referred to as Aiyanars. Made of terracotta or plastered brick, these giant figures are brightly colored and generally depict fearsome and mustachioed warriors. But exceptions to this excessively macho rule are also seen at some places.

As the scrub-covered slopes give way to thickets of thorny vegetation and then, almost imperceptibly, when tall trees began to rise, the air reverberates, with the soft roar of running water becoming more and more assertive as one reaches lower and lower.

At the bottom of the valley, the Cauvery tributaries spread in a blue and shimmering web. They gurgle, shimmer, some hardly more than exposed rocks, and large rocky stretches where old trees grew. Women in bright saris bathe, or wash clothes in the running water.

The spa-hamlet rises off the road-a scatter of shacks and buildings, staggering up the slopes of the valley, gazing down at the water-woods on the other side of the road. It has the character of a village struggling to become a town, a little tatty in patches, not yet chrome glass-and-polish, still retaining much of its truly rural charm.

Often referred to as basket-boats, the circular vessels called Coracles have bamboo frames covered in either black plastic or buffalo hide. They wait like black mushrooms, propped against trees or upturned on the banks of the river. When the river is in spate, all the dark rocks are submerged, but if one goes there in February, which is among the most favored months to visit this riverine spa, there should not be any problem. Coracles are among the oldest types of watercraft in the world, and among the most successful-a reassuring thought when one is floating in these saucer-like devices.

THE MASSEURS OF HOGENAKKAL

The famed masseurs of Hogenakkal service their bare-bodied clients efficiently. They have them sit on slabs of sun-warmed rock and pummel, knead and contort them, removing the kinks of a sedentary lifestyle. To the bystander, they seem to be torturing their victims, but everyone clearly enjoys their energetic efforts.

HOW TO REACH

By Air

Bangalore, situated at a distance of 130 km from Hogenakkal is the nearest airport.

By Rail

Salem 114 km and Bangalore 130 km are the nearest railway stations from this place.

By Road

Tourist taxis and buses are available on hire to move in and around Hogenakkal.