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PAST
The Hoysalas were warrior chieftains who established a great dynastic rule (1108-1310) between the Malaprabha and Kaveri in Karnataka. To a certain extent, the Hoysalas adopted the Kakatiya tradition of architecture for their temples-triple-shrined, cruciform ground plan, and pillared navranga halls, to which they added the most splendidly carved friezes of gods and goddesses, damsels and demons, animals and warriors.
The Belur Temple was damaged when Ganga Salar of Kaburgi, Deccan commander of Tughlaq's army, invaded the temple for its huge treasures of diamonds and gold. The Vijayanagar rulers did the much-needed repairs to the structure when they came to power under the Hoysalas. In 1397, Gudu, a general of Harihara II, constructed the storied gopuram to replace the ruined gateway. The architectural styles of the main temples and this gopuram present the most striking contrast of magnificent traditions. The Navranga hall of the Channigaraya Temple had to be rebuilt. At this time was added the deepasthambha yagyashala in front of the Chennakeseva porch. However, the much dilapidated and ruined tower crowning the Chennakeseva Temple had to be removed entirely in case it collapsed and destroyed the interior.
SIGHTSEEING
In 1117, Vishnuvardhana built the Chennakeseva Temple at Belur, located on the bank of the river Yagachi, to commemorate his victory over the Cholas at Talkad. The main shrine entrance is guarded by twin statues of a youth slaying a tiger and two miniature Vimana models flanking the stops leading to the 1.5-m-high stellar platform. The compact structure and its perfect proportions are striking. The wealth of sculptured friezes is at once bewildering, since from the base to the projected eaves every inch of available wall surface is covered with the most exquisitely sculptured images. However, the Hoysala sculpture reaches its apogee in sculptures of celestial maidens, carved with a marvelous plasticity of modeling and imbued with the most accomplished grace and elegance. These madannikais or celestial beauties depict the various occupations of their indolent lifestyle-nursing pets, dancing, admiring their own beauty in the mirror, warding off a playful monkey, frightened by a scorpion. These small figures under the broad eaves stand out in their fantastic jewelry, elaborate coiffures intricately pierced, scrolled and scalloped canopies. For these figures alone, Belur temple could be rated as India's greatest, but there is much more.
Pillars in the Navranga Hall are lathe-turned, ingeniously carved, and marvelously smooth. No two pillars look alike. The hall is triratha, on a diamond-shaped plan with entrances on the east, north, and south. The ceiling is a modified utksipta type with concentric rings ornamented with figures. The four figures of a scintillating beauty were modeled after, it is believed, the queen, Shantaladevi. In fact, she was the model for many a Hoysala apsara figure. At the center of the hall is a polished stone platform on which the queen danced in praise of the Lord Chennakeseva.
Outside, on the Vimana, the Hoysala sculptors have done the most marvelous work-unending rows of nearly 650 elephants, horses, lions, birds, warriors both mythical and real, and sculptures of gods and goddesses depicting scenes from the great Indian epics-the Ramayana, the Mahabharata, and Bhagwat Purana.
The huge walled court at Belur contains three other smaller temples: the Channigaraya Temple, built by the queen, Shantaladevi, completed by her son later; the Soumyanayaki and the Andal temples behind the main edifice; and the Veeranarayana Temple. These temples also contain splendid pieces of sculpture and would claim much admiration but for their existence under the shadow of the magnificent Chennakeseva Temple.
The most striking feature of the Belur Temple, as of all other Hoysala shrines, is its high-plinthed star-shaped jagati (platform) on which the edifice has been built. The gorgeous sculptured panels are positioned at a convenient height so that one does not have to crane one's neck to observe all the details.
SITES NEARBY
About 17 km eastward from Belur stands Halebid, the capital of the Hoysalas after Belur. It was called Dwarsamundra, a lake dug up for the welfare of the people. The main places to visit here are a double-shrined Shiva temple, named after Hoysaleswara and Shantaleswara and Kedareshwar, built by Viraballa II in 1219.
Somnathpura, near Mysore, is the best preserved among the Hoysala temples. It was built in 1269 by Somnath, a high official under Narasimha III, and dedicated to Prasanna Chenna Kesava.
Other prominent examples of Hoysala temple architecture are to be found at Godavalli, Nagamanga, Koramanga, Harihara, Nugihalli, and Arsikere.
HOW TO REACH
By Air
The nearest airport, Mangalore (154 km), is connected by Indian Airlines flights to Bangalore, Bombay, and Madras.
Rail
The nearest railhead, Hassan (37 km), is connected to Mangalore.
Road
Belur is connected by road to Bangalore (222 km), Halebid (16 km), Hassan (37 km), Mangalore (154 km), Mysore (155 km), and Shravanabelagola (86 km). There are regular bus services between Belur to these towns and cities.
Local Transport
Tourist and other taxis, as well as auto-rickshaws are available on hire.
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